Gurdurr

What changed

Black & White introduces full-art cards, where the artwork covers the whole card, and with them the first widespread use of surface texture. That changes authentication: from here on, what a card feels like matters as much as what it looks like.

The texture check

Genuine full arts have a deliberate raised pattern you can feel with a fingertip. Counterfeits are usually either completely smooth or bumpy in a way that does not follow the artwork. This is the check most likely to catch a fake that already passed the light test, and it is also the check that no photograph can perform.

Compare against another card from the same set: texture patterns are set-specific, so "feels different from my other card" only means something if the other card is a comparable printing.

What else to check

Full-art foil should show depth as the card tilts, not a flat sheen. The thinner text on full arts — the attack costs and the small print — is a common failure point for reproductions.

Read this first

No single check proves a card is real. Every test below has a way of being wrong in both directions: genuine cards that fail it, and counterfeits that pass. Treat them as evidence that accumulates, not as a verdict.

If a card is worth enough that being wrong would hurt, send it to a grading service. That is the only answer that comes with a guarantee.

1. The light test — useful, and the most over-trusted

Hold the card against a bright light and look through the short edge. A genuine modern English card has an opaque dark inner layer and blocks most light. A cheap counterfeit glows, often with the print showing through from the other side.

Where it is wrong, in both directions:

• Genuine cards that fail it. Older Japanese cards use thinner stock and can transmit noticeable light. Textured Special Illustration Rares and POP Series cards behave differently too.
• Fakes that pass it. Modern counterfeits are now made with a dark inner layer specifically to defeat this test. Passing the light test tells you a card is not a cheap fake. It does not tell you the card is real.

2. Print pattern under magnification — the strongest single check

Genuine cards are offset-printed in CMYK, so even flat colour resolves under magnification into a regular repeating pattern of tiny cyan, magenta, yellow and black dots — a rosette. A 10× jeweller's loupe is enough to see it; 30× or more is better.

• Genuine: tiny, round, evenly spaced dots in a consistent rosette.
• Inkjet fake: irregular, elongated dots, or a chaotic spray.
• Laser fake: toner clumping with melted-looking edges.
• Scanned fake: blocky pixel edges, or flat solid colour with no dot structure at all.

This is harder to fake than the light test because it is a property of the printing process rather than of the materials.

3. Texture and surface

Run a fingertip over the card. Genuine cards have a subtle, consistent tooth. Many counterfeits are either glossier and slicker than they should be, or unevenly rough. Collectors often rate texture as the check most likely to catch a "super fake" that already passed the light test.

4. The card back

Compare against a card you know is real:

• The blue should be a specific royal blue — not navy, cobalt, or turquoise
• The thin yellow inner border should be crisp and even in width
• The Poké Ball should have clean, sharp black outlines
• The outer white border should be white, not cream or yellowish

False positive to know about: genuine cards from the Wizards of the Coast era are sometimes badly miscut or off-centre. Poor centring is a condition problem, not evidence of forgery. Judge the print quality and the layers, not the alignment.

5. Font and text

Look at the card name, HP, attack names, damage numbers and especially the tiny copyright line. Genuine text is crisp at every size. Counterfeits tend to be slightly too bold or too thin, with inconsistent letter spacing, and the copyright line is often where it breaks down first — it is small enough that a reproduction smudges it.

6. Holo pattern

Tilt a foil card under a single light. A genuine holo shows a repeating geometric pattern with depth that shifts as the angle changes. Counterfeits often look like a flat holographic sticker laid on top, with a rainbow smear that does not move naturally.

Holo patterns are era-specific, so compare against a card from the same set, not just any holo.

7. Energy symbols

These are fixed artwork and forgers routinely get them subtly wrong. Fire has three distinct flame tongues; Water is a clean droplet; Psychic is a starburst with a specific number of points. Check the Weakness and Resistance formatting too — the multiplier notation is consistent on genuine cards.

8. Compare against a verified image

Pull up a high-resolution image of the same card and set, and compare the artwork crop, the set symbol, the card number, and the illustrator credit. Forgeries are frequently made from a scan of a different printing, so the crop or the set symbol is subtly wrong.

9. If it is already graded

Verify the certification number on the grading company's own website and check that the card in the slab matches the photo on file. Counterfeit slabs exist. On a genuine PSA label, holding it up to light lets you partly see through the label; a forged label with an added paper front will not.

The rip test

Tearing a card shows the black inner layer directly. It is also destructive — it destroys the card. Only ever do this to a card you have already concluded is fake.

When to stop guessing

Counterfeits have improved faster than home tests have. CGC has documented fakes deceptive enough to fool experienced collectors. For any card whose value matters to you, professional grading is the answer, and a seller who refuses to let a high-value card be graded before sale has told you something.